Crossing the road in my rural, Australian home town is still a daunting and somewhat dangerous task; travelling Myanmar with a visual impairment however was a relative joy.
Before making the leap across the seas I had a number of concerns about international travel due to being legally blind. How will I get around in a totally unfamiliar environment? Will I be able to see and/or experience the major sites and sights each place offers? Will I be able to enjoy the delights of a smile, a street scene or a seaside sunset? Will I bump into this or walk in front of that? How would I know what to eat and who to meet? Would it be worth it and would my experience be diminished compared to a sighted traveller? Could I do it?
A month in Myanmar has helped answer some of those questions and more. Come along for the journey and see what I saw (and what I didn’t see) and how I saw it.
Following my cane through Seddan Cave.
I was very lucky and appreciative to have my brother Caleb travel with me. Having Caleb as a guide and travelling partner took a huge weight off my mind and shoulders in regards to my fears of travelling. Things like navigating airports, bus and train stations, city streets and menus can be daunting things to do for those with visual difficulties so it was a relief to know I would have help in doing so. Help from someone who is extremely thoughtful of others whilst being laid back; most importantly – someone I can trust. The fact that he had been to Myanmar before and had a solid grasp of the cultural practices and best drinking places was a bonus.
The sight of two westerners, particularly one wearing an eye patch and using a white cane was a novel and humorous sight for many locals across Myanmar. Thankfully though the laughter usually seemed to be in good humour; they weren’t laughing at me or making judgements but seemed to be enjoying the experience.
It appeared that many didn’t know exactly what the white cane was but when they realised it meant something they were quick to offer assistance and learn about it. Their approach to the white cane and assistance in general was much more positive than people in Australia. For example, when at a pub, restaurant or anywhere in Australia and I ask for directions to, lets say, the toilet, people will generally just point and say “over there” and walk off. Time and time again in Myanmar when I asked for directions people would kindly and without a fuss take my arm and gently guide me to where I needed to go. They didn’t do it for kudos or to try and earn money, they did it because they genuinely care about helping people.
Often it would be after helping me that people would ask what the cane was for and become interested in my vision. Some were keen to try the cane for themselves which was always good fun and provided a laugh for us and them – always laughing with each other rather than at each other. Such an attitude to the cane was a welcome surprise as at home in Australia the cane seems to make people scared. Scared that it might slow them down or might be a burden on them. It makes adults pretend to ignore the cane holder and embarrassingly whisper when their kids ask about it. Not in Myanmar though, adults were happy to ask about it, laugh about it, learn about it and generally respect it.
An after lunch try of the white cane in Bagan.
The most profound instance of the cane and eye patch being a conversation starter rather than ender came in a remote village near Mrauk U in Rakhine State where cultural barriers melted as I the eye patch wearing pirate bonded with a Chin women over shared experiences This particular experience deserves a piece of its own which will follow.
A beautiful woman and I.
Many other conversations, albeit often stunted due to language barriers, occurred with people across the great country of Myanmar. Stories of life under a military regime, fighting against it and reserved hope that things are slowly changing intermingled with language lessons, tutorials on how to correctly tie the ubiquitous longhyi and questions about where we were from. The people were genuinely curious about us and our attire as we were interested in them. Many asked for selfies with us and more asked for nothing but an opportunity to share their lives with us.
When eyesight fails other senses like touch and feel can be utilised. Shoes are a no-go in Buddhist temples so one is immediately intimately linked with the surrounds through feel and touch. Smooth, slippery, over polished ground mixes with rocky, rough hewn paths. The hot and dry mix with the cool and wet. Hands and fingers can explore the walls, figures and statues, taking in those carved from solid stone and those of metals. Shapes of figures can be felt and a guide’s narrative can be followed by your fingers.
A good ear can also be useful, not just to listen to a guide but to take in the sounds of the other visitors; chants and prayers along with excited conversations and laughter. Listening to the people can also highlight the importance of visiting historical sites; yes the structures themselves are impressive and often awe inspiring but it is the people that visit, prey and live their lives in and with them that creates the meaning and the history. History has no story without people. Yes, it would be fantastic to see the sights in detail but missing out on one aspect of them is much better than missing out on them altogether by staying at home.
A family of buskers on 19th Street, Yangon are a treat for the ears.
Travelling isn’t just about following the guidebooks and seeing the results of other people’s achievements. It is an opportunity to push boundaries and create your own personal achievements.
Climbing Mrauk U’s highest mountain with my cane and excellent guide Ko Pauk Se (details below) was an achievement as was riding a motorbike along a secluded beach.
Sunrise on Mrauk U’s highest mountain.
Dealing with the traffic is also a huge achievement for all! What at first seems like chaos and an extreme sport for a white cane user actually works though. Road users know that they need to expect and be ready for anything so they are naturally attentive to what is going on around them. This compared to many western drivers who speed around without any idea of what or who is around them. Whilst in the west we usually use our car horns for aggressive purposes everyone constantly beeps when approaching someone else in order to let everyone know where everyone is. Generally people will give you time to go where you need to go without feeling that they are being slowed down. They realise that they all have to share the roads so it is in each other’s best interests to help each other get to their destinations in a timely and safe manner. Protip; a little beer and whiskey seem to make being a pedestrian a little easier.
The traffic is colourful to say the least.
The beer and whiskey lead me to a serious point. As much as travelling is about seeing the sights it is also about enjoying yourself. Whilst I have spoken about my brother Caleb in regards to his help in guiding me it was fantastic just to travel and have fun with him. Whilst golden pagodas and temples are what fill the guidebooks some of the most memorable (if a bit hazy) moments were those spent having a meal and a drink; a conversation and a laugh with my brother, locals and other travellers. Blindness doesn’t have to limit these experiences.
Whiskey and sunsets are always winners.
A month in Myanmar has completely resolved the questions I had in regards to blind people travelling. Yes it is possible. Yes it is worth it. Yes it can be a challenge but that is part of the fun and adventure. Things will go wrong at times but they do for all travellers. Decisions such as whether to travel solo or with somebody who can see is completely up to the individual. Personally I would have struggled travelling Myanmar solo but I’m sure other blind people could. For me, having my brother as a travelling partner and guide was a huge confidence booster; it made situations enjoyable rather than intimidating. I am extremely grateful for the opportunities he has opened up and for being someone I can travel with who I can trust to help me when needed but also trusts me to do what I can do.
I would highly recommend Myanmar as a destination for any traveller and most definitely to blind or vision impaired travellers. Yes it has its challenges and difficulties but any negatives are outweighed by the positives. It is the people that are the heart of Myanmar and if anything, having a visual impairment will only highlight how good theirs hearts are. It will only heighten the experience of having your heart stolen by them.
Thank you Myanmar and thank you Caleb.
