Upon arrival in Yangon there was only one thing to do; forget about any concerns I may have about travelling blind and dive in to this city and country’s sensual delights. That’s right, it was time to eat a grasshopper
No, I can’t blame this on choosing the wrong food due to not seeing it properly as is sometimes the case. This insect eating wasn’t an accident but something I was looking forward to as a way to immediately put my other senses to work and to get in the mind frame of trying something different. The fried grasshopper wasn’t bad either. Not a lot of taste but a lot of crunch – a great beer snack.
19th Street is a treat for all the senses. The sounds of laughter, talking and enjoying a meal mingle with the music that spills out and over from street food vendors, restaurants, beer stations and buskers.
The aroma of fresh fruit, flowers and BBQ’s in action waft and drift, often just in time to obscure some more offensive or factory experiences. The little sight I have highlighted a rainbow of colours from people’s clothes, their fruit stalls and flashing lights designed to attract attention to stupas and street stalls alike.
We found a table and let the food find us. I’m not sure if the establishment we first visited actually sold anything themselves but the service was impeccable. We ordered some BBQ which they didn’t have so out into the street they went and got it for us. We ordered beer which they didn’t have so out into the street they went and got it for us. We ordered more food that they didn’t have so off into the street they went and got it for us. I loved this aspect of Myanmar; businesses work together rather than in competition. You can take a drink from one establishment into another whilst snaking on food from the street unlike in Australia where each business makes sure you only consume what you buy from them. This business model not only seems to work for the business owners but makes for a relaxed and enjoyable experience for the customer. .
The taste buds were very happy with this experience; the food was delicious and the beer was incredibly good – Myanmar Beer is up there with any international brew. I was quickly falling in love with the place and fears about travelling blind were soon pushed to the edges of my mind – yes it was hectic but the people were friendly and the food and beer cheap and delicious. Finding out that whiskey is even cheaper than beer and hearing a family of street buskers while enjoying said beverage was the clincher.
The music was incredibly good, just voices and basic rhythm from dad and the kids but beautifully tuneful, interesting and enjoyable. If you are lucky enough to hear and see them when you visit Yangon make sure to give them some Kyats as it is well deserved.
A number of pleasant evenings were spent in similar fashion in 19th Street though occasionally a less busy part of the city provided an alternative place to sip after meal whiskeys and sugar cane juice.
The blind or low vision traveller does need to be careful when navigating the streets of Yangon including 19th. Footpaths are often overcrowded with market stalls and the roads busy. Many market stalls feature BBQs which must be carefully avoided and people don’t necessarily have the time or opportunity to see or recognise the white cane or other devices so go slow and carefully but enjoy.