The purpose of travel is often to experience new places, people and philosophies; to experience the exotic and see life from a different perspective. It is about breaking out of the comfort zone and finding yourself in situations that might otherwise be elusive at home.
It is all smiles when the fish are biting.
Before setting out on this latest adventure through Asia there was plenty of possible new experiences to be excited about. From the tropics of southern India with its palm trees and beaches to the Himalayan peaks and valleys of the north plus all the colour, tastes and sounds in between. Excitement and wonder about what life will be like in Pakistan – real life, not the version that is often displayed in the media. Would we make it to China and then North Korea? If we did where would we go next and if we didn’t where would we head instead? Everything on the horizon was new – new landscapes, new languages, new cultures.
Sometimes though it can be great to blend the old with the new; the familiar with the unexpected; the old points of reference with the unexplored. This was the happy situation we found ourselves in at the beginning of our trip – a new adventure in Malaysia with the familiarity of family.
Travelling with my brother means that the family connection is always strong while on the road. References to past and private events are understood which can be great grounding when in an unfamiliar situation. Travelling with a family member who I can trust is the difference between me being able to travel and not. The family connection was further heightened in Malaysia as our older brother, sister-in-law and two nephews live and work in Kuala Lumpur.
Another catch ready to be released.
The highlight of our time in Kuala Lumpur was the simple activity of fishing with my nephews Dash and Flynn. Fishing is always a great opportunity to sit back,relax, talk and have fun while waiting for the fish to bite. We couldn’t sit back for too long though as there were plenty of bites and many fish caught and released. It was great to have the boys as guides to the lakes around their home and even better to hang out with them and see how they have grown and matured. It was also fantastic to see my brother, their uncle, teach them the finer points of baiting, casting, waiting, reeling and how to hold the fish in order to release it. When travel is involved people always learn. When not fishing we did our own interpretations of the fish by cooling ourselves from Malaysia’s humidity and heat by splashing about in the pool.
My brother and nephews celebrating a catch.
Yikes Photo by Dash Emerson
In between the fun with our nephews we also managed to fit some sightseeing and cultural experiences into our visit.
Kuala Lumpur is a sprawling. cosmopolitan city. Shopaholics will enjoy the city with everything from night markets to modern malls ready to tempt you. Prices are more than reasonable and marked meaning you won’t have to have a stressful time haggling, though you can always try, particularly at the markets, so as to get that extra good deal.
Food of all varieties is available from fine restaurants to delicious street food – there is something for everyone. After dinner one can kick back in any of the many shisha lounges or head to a nightspot like the Helipad for a drink. The Helipad can get quite crowded and is a bit expensive for those on a low-budget, backpacking trip but worth the effort to have a drink with friends and family whilst enjoying spectacular views of the city, especially the radiant Petronas Towers that dominate the sky.
The Pirate of the Petronas Towers.
Celebrating Chinese New Year
Whilst heading out to eat in downtown Kuala Lumpur we were blessed with a bit of luck. The restaurant we planned to eat at was full so we found a stall and a table on the street. This was fortunate as the celebrations for Chinese New Year were coming to a close meaning that the streets came alive. Performers in a range of costumes including the ubiquitous dragon and lion ran riot through the streets. Some balanced impossibly on poles while others rushed around the street. All and sundry lit uncountable fire crackers. These were ear burstingly loud, particularly when a group of crackers were released right beside our table but the noise and smoke created a lot of excitement and enjoyment for all – even if it did seem a bit like being in a war zone at times!
Fire crackers exploding to herald in the Chinese New Year.
Skewered lips for Thaipusan. Photo by Colleen Derham
We were also fortunate to be in Kuala Lumpur during the Hindu festival of Thaipusan. This festival which takes part over a few days features devotees carrying a kawasi, which is a large colourful and decorated canopy of considerable weight. Some kawadis were influenced by the colour and beauty of peacocks (I have a thing for the influence of peacocks on many religions and cultures) whilst many others were seemingly random creations – at least to my eyes. All were beautiful and mesmerizing to see. Whilst some of the weight of the kawadis is burdened on the carriers shoulders via wooden poles and beams, much of their size and weight is supported and balanced by a series of piercings of the skin (chest and arms), tongue and cheeks. Skewers are also inserted in these places representing the devotion of the carriers. These actions, along with the preparations that take place over 48 days preceding the festival, including fasting and praying, put the carrier into a trance during which they perform the kawadi attam (burden dance) whilst carrying the kawadi up numerous steps into a cave where it is left as an offering to the Hindu god Mungen. This was a great way to start our grand tour of Asia and gave every reason to be excited about what other festivities we may encounter in India and elsewhere.
Self mutilation at the Thaipusan Hindu festival. Photo by Colleen Derham.
Travelling Malaysia (particularly Kuala Lumpur) as someone who is legally blind was a revelation. I was expecting there to be no infrastructure providing assistance and was prepared for an Asian country that had no idea what a white cane is and means. This can be particularly problematic at times as I largely use my cane as an identification symbol, something to let others around me know that if we are walking towards each other that it might be best for them to take a step to the side as I may plough through them or to let people in shops etc, know that my requests for assistance aren’t due to laziness but restrictions from medical problems.
I was amazed to find though that the city and people of Kuala Lumpur are very receptive to those of us with visual problems. There are a lot of tactile markers in the city that cane users can utilize to help with freedom of movement. In fact, there were much more tactile markers; raised dots and grooves than I have encountered in my home country of Australia. At times it was nice to slide my cane in the grooves and follow the course knowing that I could look around and take in the new city without walking off course. Yes, there are spots where the tactile markings just disappeared or obstacles and obtrusions are not marked but on the whole the infrastructure for the blind within Kuala Lumpur is superb.
The people themselves also made travelling through the city enjoyable as they always showed the utmost respect to the cane and myself as its user. When on the street people always got out of my path and made space without any hassle. They did their thing and allowed me to do mine.
How to win friends and influence people; get a big stick! Photo by Colleen Derham.
Using public transport in the city was a revelation. Nearly every time I made my way into a train carriage people would be very quick to show me to a vacant seat. If there was no seat available they quickly and without fuss offered me their seat after a subtle touch of my arm to get my attention. I happily accepted this hospitality when needed and at the times I was happy to stand it was hard to do so as people very much wanted me to have a comfortable and secure seat. I had to draw the line when women with young children and bags of shopping stood and collected their goods to make room for me though – I was very grateful but happier knowing mum and kids could sit and relax for a minute or two.
This treatment is certainly not forthcoming in Australia. Yes, some people are helpful and thankfully over the years staff on public transport have developed a better understanding of the needs of the visually impaired but there is certainly not as much empathy and positive action shown. People in Australia often see a cane and its user as an inconvenience; something that might slow them down or get in the way so being treated with such respect by the Malaysian people was a very appreciated experience.
As an aside it is also interesting to note that Malaysia is a predominantly Muslim country and whilst that sector of the world’s population is often demonized by the media and politicians the Muslim people of Kuala Lumpur showed much more empathy and respect to me than in largely self-centred cities like Melbourne, Australia. I thank the Malaysian people very much for this and will always remember the informal but informed way they treated me and treat others.
I couldn’t have asked for a better start to our trip and am glad that this won’t be the last time I visit Kuala Lumpur.
Whether you are blind or not make sure to put Kuala Lumpur and Malaysia in general on your travelling itinerary. There is a lot to see and do and the locals will make sure you enjoy your time there.
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Pensive as by the lake. Photo by Flynn Emerson.
